"Życie to krótki sen, którego sentymentalnie ja się nie wstydzę..." //z piosenki Stanisława Sojki//
Small Fatra (org. Mala Fatra ) is chain of mountains lying in the north-west part Slovakia approximatelly 70 km from the border with Poland. This mountains are quite easy, mainly covered by forest and in higher parties by grass. The highest top of Small Fatra is Great Krywań (org. Velký Kriváň ) - 1708,7 m. On the background of grassy slopes, two rocky tops: Great Rozsutets (org. Velký Rozsutec ) and Small Rozsutets (org. Malý Rozsutec ) present very characteristically. When we are walking across Small Fatra, we have to remember about characteristic clayey ground. After few rainy days, we will have a clay goo underfoot and can easily lose our shoes.
Suggested tourist's routes:
1. Great Rozsutets and Small Rozsutets ( Velký Rozsutec and Malý Rozsutec)
* Stefanova - Horne Diery - pass Medzirozsutce - Great Rozsutes (1609,7 m) - pass Medziholie - Stefanova *
duration : approx. 5.30 hour ( variant with Mały Rozsutets (1343,50 m) - plus about 1.20 hour); difficulty: medium
The description of the route: we walk along the yellow signs (going from bus the stop, behind the boarding-house "Penzion Starek" we turn the left into asphalt road ), after approx. 1/2 hour we reach so called Podziar. There is the shelter in which we will find the small buffet. Then we cross the brook, we have to follow the blue marked signs (behind the stream we have to turn right ). We go through the ravine Horne Diery to the pass Medzirozsutce 1.45 hour. This part of the route is very varied ( the large part of the rout we climb the ladders over the small waterfalls ). In the summer season this place is very crowded. By the way, I completely don't understand the idea of the taking with oneself dogs on the pathways. The dogs can't handle to climb so owners must carry them. Such situation causes dogs stress and other tourists are iritated by route blocking.
After reaching the pass Medzirozsutce we have 3 variants to choose : wejść na Mały Rozsutes 1. to go on Small Rozsutes - come back - have some rest - to go on Great Rozsutes; 2. to have a rest - to go on Great Rozsutes; 3. go on Great Rozsutes without any rest :). I will describe only the first variant. Near the traffic indicator on the pass, we have to turn left and go along green marked signs. The route leading on Small Rozsutets takes approx 20 min., but in practice can take longer time because of the small capacity of the route. Near the top of Maly Rozsutets are some insurance chains. On the top we can have a short rest, and the same route we come back to the pass Międzirozsutse, from where we have to go along the red signed pathway (= E3) on Great Rozsutes, it takes about 1,15 hours. At the beginning our path leads through the forest, and then the gentle traverse. There is the metal cross on the top of Great Rozsutets, from where we have a beautiful overwiew on Small Fatra. We go down the south slope, still following the red signed pathway on the pass Medziholie. The descent was insured by several chains, but having good, dry weather there is no necessity to use them . After going down on the pass, we can have a rest, and then we have to follow green marked pathway leading to Stefanova village (approx. 1 hour ).
Attention: not very difficult route in the conditions of good weather and dry ground . From the pass Medzirozsutce there is no streams, so You should take water with Yourself.
2. Wielki Krywań and Mały Krywań
* Vratna Chata - Snilovska Pass- Wielki Krywań (1708,7 m.) - Bublen Pass - Mały Krywań (1670,9 m.) - Bublen Pass - Snilovska Pass - Chleb (1645,6 m.) - Południowy Gruń (1458,7 m.) - Chata na Gruni - Stefanova *
duration : approx. 7.30 hours (to and fro, using the chairlift) ; difficulty: rather easy;
We drive up from Stefanova to Vratna Chata (there are regular buses). From this place I'd advice to use chairlift to get to the pass Snilovska (Snilovske sedlo), it cost 7,50 Eur (in 2009 ). Of course volunteers can go by walk, keeping the green signs, although tis path is not very interesting, leads along chair lift and takes about 2 hours. On the final chair lift station is a restaurant (of Mc Donald type ). From the pass, reaching the top of Great Krywań (the highest top of Small Fatry - 1708,7 m.) is very close - approx. 45 minutes. We walk along the red marked path which is very easy. After reaching the top we have to go back to the "traffic indicator" and choose the red signed path leading on Small Krywań. This route takes approx. 1 hour . The geology and vegetation resembles Polish mountains - Bieszczady. In August, usually, we will meet numerous berrey pickers, because this part of Small Fatra abounds with navy blue, tasty and healthy fruits . There is a stone, few meters high monument on the top of Small Krywań. We come back the same route to the pass Snilovskiej, where from we wander, still following the red signed path, on Chleb (from the pass approx. 30 min.). From Chleb to the lap of our route - Południowy Gruń we hike about 1 hour. A few minutes walk after reaching the top, we will have a "traffic indicator". We have to choose yellow signed path, which leads us to the Chata na Gruni (= cabana). In the cabana we can have a rest, eat and drink something. The last lap of the route leads the blue marked path and takes about 45 minutes to Stefanova village.
Approach:
By train and by car, the best way of approach seems to be way from Żywiec (Poland) via Zwardoń -Skalite to Žilina. For tourists traveling by the train, I'd recommed to buy a ticket to the border (= Zwardoń), to cross the border by walk (approx. 3 km) and to catch the train in Skalite Serafinov to Žilina (we have to buy the ticket in train). Such way requires the additional effort , but, for example - the direct personal train Katowice - Žilina costs more than 100zł and variant with the passage of the border on on foot - the total cost is 25 zloty (Katowice -Zwardoń + Skalite -Žilina ). If we have some free time, it is worth stopping in Žilina. Paved, quite narrow streets in the neighbourhood of this city ( having above 85 tys. of the citizens ) old market, have their unique charm.
From Žiliny we have to go to the chosen locality by bus (approx. 30 km ) on Small Fatra - this can be small villages: Štefanová or Vratna. Tourists having the car can stop in the larger touristic town: Terchowá, but from here, should drive about 10 kilometers to reach the routes.
Accomodation:
For tourists valuing the silence and quiet, the recommended place to stay is small village: Štefanová. There are several boarding-houses and private lodgings here. Accomodation in private lodgings costs approx. 8 - 9 Eur and in boarding-house 12- 15 Eur. This is the also excellent location to the start on pathways ( in example on Rozsutse, South Gruń, Stoh ) . Writing about accomodation in Štefanova, is worth to say about characteristic bus stop. This place fulfils many functions: here are: toilet, shop with souvenirs, the mini bar (I recommend beer "czapowane" and stronger alcohol drink: borovicka ), here is also the place to the seat.